IELTS, ESP, EAP and CALL

Ireland's 40,000 nomads, formerly disparagingly called tinkers, are now politely called travelers; most have given up horsecarts and covered wagons of their ancestors for car-towed trailers; still have hard time finding regular jobs or adequate campsites; 2,000 live in illegal camps that lack normal facilities; Government has ordered local councils to provide adequate facilities within next five years; map; photo (M)